It is week four of National Pet Month, and time for another of our student top tips for responsible pet ownership blogs! This week, recent veterinary care assistant graduate, Mari, shares her Top Tips for Responsible Rabbit Ownership:
Top tips for looking after rabbits
Being a rabbit owner can be highly rewarding as rabbits often have big personalities and are entertaining to be around, however their needs are often complicated and in order to keep them happy and healthy, all their needs must be met and adjusted depending on their age, breed and health status.
The 10 things all rabbits require to thrive are as follows:
1. Water, Diet and Nutrition
There are four staples which must make up every domesticated rabbit’s diet which include:
- Fresh, clean drinking water every day, either in a bowl or a non-drip drinking bottle depending on your rabbit’s preference. Rabbits must always be able to access water, so it is important to check regularly that there is plenty readily available.
- The main staple of a rabbit’s diet is usually hay or grass which is high in fibre; however, rabbits digest fibre poorly and therefore need a large amount within their diet to be able to absorb what they need. A high-quality hay or grass should make up 85- 90% of a rabbit’s diet and should always be accessible. Fibrous grass and hay also wear down rabbits’ teeth and without this in their diet their teeth are likely to become overgrown. Additionally, a rabbit’s gut must always be moving and the high fibre content of grass and hay assists with this, without this the rabbit can potentially have gut statis where there is no movement through the gut, which can be fatal. It is advised that a large handful or approximately the same size of the rabbit of fresh high-quality hay or grass should be given daily. Rabbits must never be given cut grass as the heat from lawnmowers and the cutting process changes the properties of the grass causing it to ferment quicker and potentially upset a rabbit’s stomach if consumed.
- A handful of fresh greens and vegetables should be given every day for variety in the rabbit’s diet and to add some of the vitamins, nutrients, and minerals the rabbit requires. A large cupful should be given daily, and the contents should vary. It is important to be mindful of the amount of each vegetable or green that is given to the rabbits as some dark leafy greens are high in calcium and too much can cause issues. Similarly, too many vegetables from the cabbage family can cause painful gas and cause a rabbit discomfort. Other vegetables and fruits such as carrots can be high in starch and sugars and too much of these disturbs the gut balance, so access should be limited.
- Rabbits should also be provided a small amount of nutritionally rich nuggets to compliment the rabbit’s diet to provide additional vitamins and minerals which may not be included in the hay and fresh greens. They often also help with general health and digestion. It is vital not to overfeed rabbits with nuggets as this may prevent them eating as much hay and greens as they should. The pellets should only make up 5% of their diet and it is advised to spread them around the cage to encourage the rabbit to forage for them. Muesli style food should be avoided at all costs as it encourages selective feeding where the rabbit may only eat the bits they enjoy the most from the food and therefore are not getting a varied and nutritionally balanced diet. It may also encourage the rabbit to solely eat the muesli and avoid the hay/grass and leafy greens which are vital for their health, and this is why these types of foods should be avoided.
- Shop bought treats for rabbits often have a high sugar content and are not ideal as part of their diet, so it is advised to provide fresh fruits and vegetables such as apple with the pips removed, strawberries, kiwi or melon in small amounts in the form of treats, which are likely to be more beneficial for the rabbit’s health.
2. Suitable Housing
Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors, but whichever location is chosen, it is important to ensure all the rabbit’s needs are met. They need to be housed in a suitable cage which is a large enough space for them to be able to stand up on their hind legs and stretch out comfortably. They must also be able to move around freely with plenty of room for them to exhibit normal behaviours. The construction of the housing, whether a hutch or cage, must be of a non-toxic material and made up of materials that can withstand chewing or gnawing such as bars. If plastic or wood is used, then this must be monitored regularly for chewing as damage to the interior could lead to an escape.
The recommended minimum size for rabbits is approximately 10ft x 6ft x 3ft (3M x 2M x 1M) but a larger living space is recommended for happy rabbits.
Outdoor housing
Outdoor housing must be sheltered from the elements and be well insulated to keep bunnies warm in the winter and in an area of shade for the hot summer days to prevent them from getting heatstroke. The shelter must be off the ground to prevent water getting in on rainy days and be large enough for the rabbit to be able move around comfortably and freely.
Indoor housing
Indoor housing must be large enough for the rabbit to live comfortably and must be made of a sturdy escape proof material. It must provide a sheltered area where rabbits can hide if they desire. Plenty of owners allow their rabbits to roam free within a room or a floor of the house but it is important to make sure the rabbit cannot access or chew any items which may cause it harm, such as cables and wires or house plants. Any time a rabbit does have free roam they must be supervised to prevent them from escaping into areas they are not allowed or chewing items that they should not, such as skirting boards or door frames. Indoor rabbits can also be litter trained by placing a litter tray in the area they have chosen to use the toilet.
Regardless of whether a rabbit is housed inside or outside they should always be given an outside space for exercise, sunlight and fresh air where they can exhibit normal behaviours such as foraging, eating grass and digging. This can be an enclosed area within the garden or free roam as long as the garden in escape proof and there is no access to anything which can cause harm, such as toxic plants.
3. Exercise
Ideally, a rabbit should have an area for exercise as part of their housing so they can exercise freely, however space does not always allow for this, especially for indoor rabbits, so it is vital that an exercise area can be provided for rabbits. This area needs to be large enough for them to be able to sprint and hop around freely. Rabbits must be given access to this area daily for regular exercise so they can exhibit normal rabbit behaviour. Regular exercise also prevents obesity and boredom.
4. Companionship
Rabbits are naturally social creatures and enjoy the company of other rabbits and, although they enjoy the company of humans, human companionship alone is not enough to meet their social needs. They seek comfort in having another rabbit close and enjoy being around a companion as they enjoy being near each other, grooming each other, and keeping close together for warmth. Ideally rabbits who are housed together should be bonded prior to being put together and should be neutered if they are not siblings to prevent any competing, sexual or dominating behaviours. It is vital to note that it is unsuitable to house rabbits with other species such as guinea pigs as they are unable to communicate in the same ways and this can cause issues.
5. Health
Spending plenty of time with your rabbit helps you to be able to recognise when they are feeling unwell. Signs that may indicate your rabbit is ill include:
- Unkempt or greasy fur
- Loss or reduction in appetite
- Not being as active as usual
- Grinding teeth
- Unusual posture
- Change in faeces consistency or regularity
If there are any concerns that the rabbit is not right then veterinary advice should be requested.
6. Toys and enrichment
Providing rabbits with items in their home to interact with is vital in keeping domesticated rabbits happy. They can easily become bored as in the wild they would spend a large percentage of their time foraging and looking for food. Pet rabbits do not need to do this as owners meet this need, therefore other activities need to be provided as entertainment. There are a wide variety of items available that can be added to the cage for the rabbit to use as entertainment such as:
- Tubes or tunnels
- Balls and toys
- Gnawing items
- Cardboard boxes
- Digging box
- Foraging toys
Having these items allows for rabbits to be stimulated and exhibit normal behaviours. It is important to ensure that regardless of which items are provided, that they are made of a safe material for rabbits that will not give them stomach issues.
7. Grooming
Rabbits generally spend a large amount of time grooming themselves and each other if they have cage mates, but they will still need regular brushing to help keep their coat in a good condition. It also gives the owner bonding time with their pet and an opportunity to check the rabbit’s coat for any unwanted parasites such as fleas, ticks, flystrike or mite. It is also a chance to check if there are any issues with their skin, such as sores, lumps and dandruff. Rabbits go through a moult twice a year and will need assistance to remove the excess shedding fur and prevent this fur from being consumed by the rabbit. Depending on coat length, rabbits should be brushed at least once a week, twice for longer haired rabbits. Rabbits with very long hair may need to be brushed daily, especially if they are prone to matting. It is important to make sure this is not a stressful experience for the rabbit as stress can cause health issues, so slowly building up this routine and getting the rabbit to become accustomed to being groomed is vital. The tools to use during this process vary depending on coat length and fur type so it is advised to speak to a veterinary professional to find out which tools are going to be most suitable for your pet. Rabbits’ skin can be very sensitive so it is vital to use tools that are not going to damage the rabbit’s skin or cause sores, so all brushes and combs used must be fairly blunt. It is also a good time to check the rabbit’s nails and if too long then cutting them to a suitable length is advised, but be mindful of the quick – the pink part of the nail – as if this is cut this will bleed and cause pain to your rabbit. Again, seeking advice from your veterinarian as to how much nail to cut is advised.
8. Exhibit normal behaviours
In the wild, rabbits would roam and spend a large amount of time foraging and looking for food within a colony. Within a domesticated environment it is vital to encourage these normal behaviours to ensure they are happy and adequately stimulated. This is why it is advised to provide your pet with tools to mimic life as a wild rabbit. These include:
- A large exercise area or plenty of time to spend in a large area where they can exercise, dig and forage
- Other rabbits so they can socialise and have companionship
- A diet that is similar to what they would find in the wild, this includes foraging for high value treats, which will provide stimulation
- Toys and hides that the rabbit can interact with
- A suitable home where they are protected and have enough space to be able to move around freely
9. Annual veterinary visits
Annual health checks with a veterinarian are advised for rabbits to check their teeth, weight and general health. It is also recommended that they are vaccinated against potentially life-threatening diseases such as myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease. These appointments can be used to seek advice on grooming and diet and discuss any concerns that an owner may have about their rabbit.
10. Handling
Generally, rabbits do not like to be picked up and carried, it makes them feel unsafe, so this process needs to be built up over time, starting while rabbits are young and getting them used to being handled is advised. Start slowly by sitting next to them and petting them until they are comfortable with you is advised. Rabbits that are not used to being handled are likely to panic when being picked up and it is important to ensure that both owner and rabbit are safe during the process. Rabbits may start to kick their legs or start thrashing around and it is important to ensure they are unable to hurt themselves as their spines especially are very fragile and can be damaged easily. The correct way to pick up a rabbit is to place one hand under the rabbit’s chest, the other hand under their hind legs and lift gently, holding the rabbit against your body for added support, but try not to hold too tightly as the rabbit is likely to resist. This should only be for short periods as rabbits feel their safest when they are restriction free and at ground level. Most importantly, rabbits must always be fully supported while being held and they must never be picked up by their ears or their scruff as this can be damaging to them.
Rabbits are at their happiest when there is plenty of fresh food, a large clean space and plenty of things for them to do. As long as they have regular contact with their humans or a companion rabbit and undergo regular health and wellbeing checks then they are likely to live long happy lives and provide their owner with years of affection and entertainment.
During National Pet Month our students are also raising money for StreetVet – we will bring you details of activities that they are organising and taking part in in due course. StreetVet is a charity that provides free veterinary care to the pets of people experiencing homelessness. It is a wonderful cause because it not only helps ensure the health and wellbeing of these pets but also brings comfort and companionship to their owners during challenging times. You can learn more about their incredible work and donate to the cause here.